Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Forming, Handling and Applying the Hull Panels

Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby stuart hearn » Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:42 am

6mm al al is a breeze, me plating in 1986
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby Assassin » Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:17 pm

The great thing about the English wheel is its flexibility to create complex double curves, but it takes considerable expertise to master, there is an intermediate solution to forming skins for those less accomplished in its use.

With steel framing, simply form a rough shape on the wheel, then install in its intended position, use self drilling screws with a cordless drill to attach the panel, the sort i use are 20mm (3/4") long stainless steel 4mm (3/16") diameter; and tap their own thread in steel. These are used to obtain the final shape of the panel as well as pulling it to its final shape prior to fitting. The plate is slightly overlapping the preceeding plate to allow for marking and final accurate trimming, this is done with an 4 1/2" angle grinder using a very thin plasma type cutting disk, in thinner plates they are simply cut with the plasma disk; the plates can be removed and trimmed and reinstalled using the original screws and screw holes to ensure a snug fit with a 1mm root gap for welding. The plate is tacked into position and its opposite plate is fitted in the same manner to prevent stress pulling the hull out of alignment, the screws can be left in or removed prior to welding, and once removed, the small holes are simply welded.

This method can be used to fully plate a hull before any welding is undertaken by simply not tacking the hull plates and removing the screws, the screws are left in position to ensure the alignment of the hull, once all the plates are installed the entire hull is tacked to the frame and welded. The screws are removed and the holes are welded up.

Self drilling, tapping screws are available in a variety of sizes, but i use the 4x19mm screws for up to 6mm plate, and 6x50 screws for plate above 6mm; these larger sizes come with a hexagon head so a nut driver, socket, or spanner may be used to exert more force to pull the panel fully into line.
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby stuart hearn » Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:18 am

someone name of Ted, asked me for wheeling machine plan
he is welcome, but dunno , source of email was from Admin
Stu
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the nose

Postby stuart hearn » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:59 am

Making the nose
Soft nose, cone bow, bow plate, all names for that piece at the bow)
As you can see from the photo below, the nose on Nimbus 2 in tight
It took 5 hours to do this, myself and a female assistant who pressed the forwards reverse switch
First off, you make a “cotton reel” vee block for the wheels, as small as you can so that it will do the end that is really tight
You will need to draw the plan view of the waterlines the designer will have given a radius at each water line Take a template of ply at each or thin al sheet, Weld each template to a piece of flat bar with the waterline spacing marked on it, and take at the correct angle (take the angle with a bevel off the loft Make a set of ply templates too Develop your cone, nose, call it what you will and cut it oversize in width by abt 30mm Mark the waterlines on it, Now lay wheels if they are overhead type like the ones we use, on its side, and start forming from the Outside in, get the outer edges right first, because if you do the centre first then the plate will curl around and foul the machine That is why designing wheels takes thought
Lay your templates in,, working away until they fit When it fits the whole pattern, mark where the nose runs out into the topsides plate and mark
If the nose has shape both ways, like clipper or normal curve then you will need either to stretch the edge or shrink it, Bending it bow, shaped(I guess that’s why it is called a bow” you can lay it over some wooden blocks and hammer it with a big hammer and wooden block of hardwood, as you do this the original forming will change, so you need to adjust, There can be some degree of latitude especially if you have breasthooks , or even bresthooks!!and stringers to pull into, however once formed this nose will be super rigid like a heavy pipe
Fair in the marks with a batten and cut the line
There are other ways, reciprocating presses, hammers but IMO wheels make the best job and the result is immensely satisfying
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby Brent Swain » Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:46 am

When I look at the extreme complexity of these hulls, I'm reminded of all the fun I've been missing , having built 3 dozen steel boats without ever making a frame.
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby stuart hearn » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:05 am

i have been looking here
And some people posted some really nice Comments
THANK YOU THANK YOU ICH LIEBE DICH

It is rather nice to be in this forum, kinda laid back peaceful
In 3 days I will be in Germany and Europe in general
I simply must sell a boat, we have no pension in Au, it is means tested so I will pedal the river boat around those places
In my younger days I would have ploughed in built on spec
I did donate Steve today, now I am on a potato diet for a month to pay for this
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Stu
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby stuart hearn » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:46 am

Brent Swain wrote:When I look at the extreme complexity of these hulls, I'm reminded of all the fun I've been missing , having built 3 dozen steel boats without ever making a frame.


well yes you have been missing, creativity art
When I look at a bronze sculpture i do not say how silly, I look in awe and think, "i wish I had that talent" But I never will
When I look at a Monet, I think, belle, sure I could daub some paint onto a blackboard and call it art\
We strive to do better Not because we look for praise, but because we look for some satisfaction in our work
i do not feel satisfied, there is much to do, much to learn Do you see?
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Re: Adding the Sheet Metal "skin"

Postby BrianR » Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:07 am

Well said Mr. Hearn. I happen to be a professional sculptor, and I don't do things because they are "easy". I do them because they are beautiful and satisfying.Being efficient in one's work is also an art form, but choosing the form of one's art simply because it's easy to make is a waste of time.Cheers mate!
Brian
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